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It is hard to imagine cooking without the unique flavors of herbs.

It is hard to imagine cooking without the unique flavors of herbs.

We’d be hard pressed to find someone (at least in my generation) who doesn’t remember that haunting melody, and the young man reminiscing about his true love from the Scarborough Faire. Hearing the song on the radio the other day reminded me this is a perfect time to make plans to create that herb garden you’ve always wanted, or the one I/you might need to rejuvenate.

It is hard to imagine cooking without the unique flavors of herbs. Some, like thyme, marjoram and bay, dry successfully. But most are at their best when they are young and freshly picked so it is well worth your time to plant a few. Many herbs flourish in our region with little attention if you give them a good sunny spot. They attract bees and butterflies in addition to enhancing flavors.

I have a couple rules about planting an herb garden learned the hard way. First, herbs need to be planted near the kitchen door. I have to admit my sage and basil planted in our orchard were less likely to make it to the dinner plate when I had to walk downhill to pick them. Second, you can’t be formulaic about following recipe recommendations on amounts to use. Herbs vary in strength of flavor as well as your own sensitivities; adjust accordingly.

Some herbs such as mint or lemon balm are quite invasive so plan a good spot to accommodate them. Every spring we still enjoy the French sorrel given to me more than 20 years ago. Its spritely sour taste (in a sauce) enhances salmon or chicken, is excellent in a frittata and makes a pleasant addition to spring salads. Here are few herbs I consider essential.

Parsley: I grow this herb primarily for a practical reason. I hate buying a bunch and using a few sprigs while the remaining purchase lies lost in the back of the refrigerator until it wilts. A couple plants, maybe even grown in a pot, is a good beginning. If you allow them to flower and go to seed, they will return every year.

Rosemary: For centuries it has been thought of as the herb for improving memory as well as many other medicinal uses. Crush a few leaves in your hand and inhale the aroma; you can feel your head clear. It is also the easiest to grow and most drought tolerant plant in the garden. I rarely water mine in the summer. Rosemary enhances breads or herb butters and is delicious with grilled meats, vegetables and marinades.

Sage: Sage was used for medicinal purposes as early as the Romans. Plant it in a hot, sunny location and you’ll always have extra to give to a friend. Most of us think basil and tomatoes are the perfect flavor marriage but sage with tomatoes, especially on pizza with garlic and mozzarella, is melt in your mouth delicious. Use it for more than just for your thanksgiving stuffing.

Tarragon: I would have written that song as “Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Tarragon.” One of my favorite go-tos, it adds a somewhat mysterious flavor to salmon, soups and vegetables — a subtle licorice like flavor. This plant also needs to be refreshed, and a new one added every few years.

Marjoram: Memories of sautéed summer squash topped with a Marjoram Pesto makes me wish I wasn’t sitting next to a fire. It’s probably best to add a second plant of marjoram to the garden a couple years after the first one as it tends to diminish in vitality. Next summer, instead of making pesto from basil, try this. It’s great with fresh beets, over pasta, a topping for bruschetta or just about everything. The following recipe I took from Debra Madison’s Local Flavors.

Happy planting and renewed cooking inspiration when the spring is finally upon us.

Marjoram Pesto with Capers and Olives

One small slice hearty country bread

Two tablespoons red wine vinegar

Two cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

One quarter cup marjoram leaves

One half cup pine nuts (or walnuts)

Three quarters to one cup finely chopped parsley

One quarter cup pitted Greek olives, chopped

One half cup extra virgin olive oil

Remove the crusts from the bread, then soak it in the vinegar on a plate.

Pound the garlic with a half teaspoon salt in a mortar until smooth, then work in the marjoram, capers, pine nuts, parsley, and olives until you have a coarse puree. Add the bread and the olive oil and work until the pesto is well blended. Season with pepper; then taste for the vinegar and add more if you think it needs it. Pesto will be quite thick.

Fresh Fettucine with Lemon, Herbs and Parmesan

Ten ounces of fresh fettucine or spaghetti noodles

One and half teaspoons salt

One quarter cup extra virgin olive oil (more if needed)

Four to eight cloves garlic, minced

One quarter cup chopped marjoram and thyme leaves, stems removed

(or use chives, basil or tarragon)

One quarter cup chopped parsley

A few shakes of red pepper flakes (optional)

Salt and fresh ground pepper

Bring water to a boil in a large stockpot; add a generous pinch of salt and stir in the pasta. Return the pot to a boil, stirring frequently and cook 5-7 minutes until pasta is al dente. Drain pasta in a colander set in a bowl and set aside. Reserve a quarter cup of the cooking liquid to add to the pasta if too dry.

In a small sauté pan or frypan add the olive oil and gently stir fry the minced garlic for 2 minutes. Add the marjoram and thyme, lemon juice, salt and peppers (if desired). Sauté for an additional one to two minutes; then stir in the parsley.

Return sauce and pasta to a pot to warm through and add the Parmesan cheese at the table. Makes four servings.

Patti Bess is a cookbook author and freelance writer from Grass Valley. She can be reached for comments or suggestions at: bess.pattia@gmail.com

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